Table of Contents
The a hundred and fifth version of Italian commerce present Pitti Uomo set a quick tempo for this menswear season. There have been 832 manufacturers to absorb, two visitor designers and reveals by main manufacturers together with Todd Snyder, Woolrich and Guess Denims. Becoming, then, that the theme of the occasion was “time” and its capacity to decelerate or velocity up, relying in your notion.
The four-day occasion, which kicked off on 9 January, whizzed by with 13,000 patrons in attendance. There have been fewer home patrons on the truthful as a result of native affect of the financial disaster during the last three to 4 months, whereas the variety of worldwide patrons rose 4 per cent year-on-year to 4,700.
“Pitti is a really totally different second from all the opposite moments of the style [calendar] as a result of it’s 4 days the place you’ll be able to have an outline of the business, have conversations and see many several types of model,” says Pitti president Antonio De Matteis.
Pitti Uomo featured its common mix of tailoring and streetwear, plus new classes.
Photograph: Acielle/Styledumonde
“Within the pavilions, the stands, within the metropolis, at particular occasions, right here in Florence we recorded a widespread, nice vitality,” provides Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of the truthful’s organiser Pitti Immagine. “I’m referring to the standard of the collections and the businesses’ dedication to including new kinds and/or supplies every season in tune with new client tendencies; to the flexibility of the perfect retailers and patrons to pick orders [that balance creativity with] business wants.”
Pitti’s affect is rising because of nearer hyperlinks with Milan Vogue Week, as outlined by Digital camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana president Carlo Capasa in his Autumn/Winter 2024 press briefing in December. It’s a wise transfer: in Copenhagen, vogue week has lengthy aligned with the town’s commerce reveals, bringing extra consideration to every.
Listed here are the important thing takeaways from Pitti that can inform menswear’s route in 2024.
Younger expertise with a progressive message
In contrast to final season, the place LA label Erl featured as the one visitor designer, this version of Pitti positioned a much bigger give attention to rising abilities, with two visitor designers, who every introduced a progressive imaginative and prescient of menswear, inspecting gender roles and/or inclusivity.
Most Well-liked
First, Italian label Magliano despatched fashions down an infinite spotlit staircase in sports activities and live performance corridor Nelson Mandela Discussion board. The present opened with a mid-size look, which — in a menswear market the place measurement inclusivity is missing — felt like a battle cry from Luca Magliano. The younger Italian designer has prioritised dressing all our bodies no matter gender, race or measurement since launching his model in 2016. The AW24 assortment was impressed by femininity, that includes males in skirts and other people in specifically made chest binders (compression tops), in collaboration with Untag. “Being at Pitti means reflecting on the thought of basic, and our take is female, a form of new impartial that belongs to homosexual identities and to the queer tradition,” the designer advised Vogue Runway reporter Tiziana Cardini.
Magliano Autumn/Winter 2024.
Vogue: Courtesy of Magliano
Pitti mainstay model Kiton offered the tailoring for the gathering. “We need to present how our firm could be very open to novelty, to modernity, to be up to date, and to collaborate with new blood,” says Kiton CEO De Matteis (who additionally serves as Pitti president).
Most Well-liked
Then, on Thursday night, British export SS Daley took to the stage as Pitti visitor designer. In Florence’s historic Palazzo Vecchio, designer Steven Stokey-Daley introduced a targeted, 35-look assortment impressed by the diaries between two boys who fell in love in an Oxford dorm in 1935, and EM Forster’s queer coming-of-age novel Story of a Panic.
“My work is subversive as a result of within the UK and lots of corners of the world, we’re going backwards,” stated Stokey-Daley forward of the present, referring to the dearth of, or rolling again of, LGBTQ+ rights. “To not bang the drum an excessive amount of… however that’s why it’s vital to inform these tales.”
SS Daley Autumn/Winter 2024.
Photograph: GoRunway
Enter the age of imperfection
All through the truthful, clothes had uncovered linen labels, grains in wool and — as predicted for AW24 — dishevelled, slouchy matches.
British accent and baggage model Carl Friedrik, which showcased within the Futura Maschina part of the truthful, purposefully makes use of a fragile leather-based for its briefcases, wallets and suitcases, in order that the pattina displays use over time and offers a “lived-in” look. “Some clients need pristine, however we discover numerous clients in the present day are glad for issues to really feel extra worn in,” says co-founder Mattis Oppermann.
Most Well-liked
Camper artistic director Achilles Ion Gabriel’s eponymous ready-to-wear model made its much-anticipated debut on Thursday, at previous station Stazione Leopolda, a brief stroll from the Pitti Uomo truthful. “I’ve at all times seen Pitti as a significant platform within the business,” says the designer. “We’ve obtained such extremely optimistic suggestions from company who attended the present and people who had been capable of watch on-line in the event that they had been unable to journey to Florence. I couldn’t be happier.” The gathering featured closely starched coats and shirting, fragile, déchirée lace attire, torn hems on denims and outsized studded-leather shoulder baggage with scribble prints and intentional injury to the pattina.
Pitti welcomed 13,000 patrons this season, together with 4,700 patrons from overseas.
Photograph: Acielle/Styledumonde
At Magliano, imperfection was additionally a key theme. With slight untuckings, shirts protruding and slouchy, layered knits. “I believe this imperfection that’s seen has to do with the truth that for us, the clothes interiorise behaviours, act as and mirror human attitudes and gestures, and with them additionally imperfections, that we don’t see as non-perfect in any respect,” Magliano says, “perfection is an idea we aren’t [in] in any respect. Within the present, [not just in] this AW24 however in all our reveals, a way of fragility is what we need to talk utilizing the garments.”
Males are rising their wardrobes
Whereas tailoring nonetheless featured closely at Pitti, manufacturers continued to experiment new avenues this season, to win totally different audiences or supply recent classes to their current clients.
Most Well-liked
Kiton, which doubled its gross sales to €200 million between 2020 and 2023, introduced its “urbanwear” sub-brand KNT in a big show on the essential piazza. The gathering of sweaters, T-shirts and puffers, printed with graffiti-style paintings from artist Omar Hassan, underlines the model’s want to achieve younger audiences and serve extra moments within the buyer’s day.
“Males at the moment are extra exact with what they put on, and so they costume for the event,” says De Matteis. “Menswear is changing into like womenswear. Males can change thrice a day. As a result of if within the night there’s a lovely get together, he’ll put on a tuxedo. If it’s a cocktail, he’ll go in [more[ sportswear inspired [clothes]. Purchasers are rising their wardrobes to mirror [the shift].”
Within the long-standing Scandinavian part, plaid, slouchy suiting and sports-inspired vogue reigned, in keeping with the rising affect of sport on vogue since lockdown. “The go well with and tie is over, as we all know,” stated a merchandiser for Swedish model J Lindeberg.
Outerwear is in
Males are investing extra closely in equipment and outerwear, to convey luxurious and efficiency to different elements of their lives. Exhibitors defined that males are doing extra analysis than ever, earlier than shopping for into performancewear, outerwear and equipment, to increase the longevity of their purchases.
This season, to mirror the rising affect of outerwear, gorpcore and technical vogue on the menswear market, Pitti added a brand new part: I Go Out. As temperatures plummeted throughout Northern Europe and the wind in Florence started to chunk this week, this new focus felt well-placed.
SS Daley Autumn/Winter 2024
Photograph: GoRunway
The part options over 20 outerwear labels, together with footwear label Teva, technical model On a regular basis Mountaineering and coat model Càpe Idea. There have been additionally big-brand outerwear activations in the primary piazza and throughout the truthful from Japanese tenting model Snowpeak, down jacket label Replumé and WP Lavori, which introduced outerwear labels Barbour, Filson and Blundstone. With puffers and waterproofs in neon tones and patterns, Pitti’s outerwear providing offered an fascinating distinction to the extra impartial tones throughout the tailoring part. As loud luxurious creeps in for 2024, outerwear is main the way in which.
